Fish Cakes

I’m a sucker for a good crab cake. Succulent lumps of white flesh gently held together by a little egg and mayo. If you prefer a crab cake consisting mostly of breadcrumbs and no crab to speak of, find another blog. Those are not crab cakes; those are hockey pucks. I’m talking about flaky fish, fish, fish. That’s all you should taste with maybe a little kick of heat.

But the crab cake model is not meant merely for the crab. All kinds of fish can find their way to your plate being held together by a little emulsion and softly sautéed to golden perfection. In fact, that’s how fish cakes were born—using up leftovers. Almost every cuisine on the planet has their own form of fish cake that’s been boiled, beer-battered, fried or pan-seared.

My last tango with fish cakes was with some leftover salmon. Dinner ended up being a riff on Niçoise salad with fish cakes instead of filets. Salmon is a great base for this dish. It’s got lots of flavor and enough fatty oil of its own to keep it together. But as with any fish cake, the flavor has to come through with a focus on the fish and not the filler.

As filler goes, your best bet is with the cracker scene and not breadcrumbs. Bread is heavy. Crackers are lighter and you don’t need much to act as a binder. I use either Saltines or oyster crackers. Light and puffy, they add just enough without being overbearing.

Here’s the recipe:

1 lb. cooked salmon
1 red pepper
2 scallions, chopped
1 large garlic clove, minced
½ c. parsley, chopped
½ c mayonnaise
1 egg, beaten
1 TB Dijon mustard
1 tsp paprika
½ tsp Tabasco sauce
1 c. Saltines


Shred the cooked salmon with your hands. Whisk together the mayo, egg, mustard, paprika, and Tabasco. Add to the salmon. Mix well. In a pan, sauté the garlic and pepper with a little butter or oil (your choice). Allow to cool, then add to the salmon mixture with the parsley and scallions. Whiz up the crackers in a food processor and incorporate into the salmon. Form into little patties. Sauté the patties in either butter or olive oil. Serve immediately.

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