Churros

My favorite memory of churros comes from a trip to Madrid a few years ago. Across the street from our rented apartment, there was a mini plaza with a bakery on the corner. They sold these long golden churros with hot chocolate to dip in. For my family, particularly my three daughters, this afternoon snack was the highlight of the day. Who cares about Plaza Mayor, the Prado museum, or even the Mercado de San Miguel when there are churros to be devoured?

Churros have been a hit for centuries in Spanish-speaking countries all over the world. Food historians speculate that an early version was brought to Europe from China. But churros are not alone in the world of fried dough. From beignets to falafel to samosas, there is a broad range of fried dough dishes, both savory and sweet.

Recently, Disney released a copy of their popular churros recipe, so I gave it a try. Rather than the long or spiraled version, these are bite-sized. While it is a fairly straight-forward combination of eggs, flour, water, and butter, the magic comes from its preparation. Bringing the water to a boil with the butter and cinnamon gradually adding the flour creates a warm dough ball. The ball is then meant to rest for a few minutes to cool so the eggs can then be added. That’s fine, but I found that part unnecessarily difficult. The next time I make them, I may actually add beaten eggs in a slow stream to the slightly cooled liquid before adding the flour. That way, you have a fully formed dough ball with all the essential ingredients instead of trying to add the eggs to an already-formed ball.

Coat the churros in cinnamon sugar or leave them plain and dip them in melted chocolate, Nutella, or even dulce de leche. For the recipe, just click on the link above or use the instructions below. Have fun!

1 c. water

8 TB butter (1 stick)

1/4 tsp. salt

3/4 tsp. cinnamon, divided into 1/4 and 1/2

1 1/4c. flour

3 eggs

1 1/2 c. canola oil

1/2 c. sugar

Combine water, butter, salt, and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon in 1 ½-quart saucepan over medium heat. Bring pot to rolling boil. Reduce heat to low.

Add flour and stir vigorously until mix forms a ball. Remove from heat and let rest for 5-7 min. Add eggs, one at a time, and stir until combined. Set aside.

Heat oil in medium skillet or 1-quart saucepan over medium-high heat or until temperature reaches 350˚.

Spoon dough into piping bag fitted with large star tip. Pipe 1-inch strip of dough over saucepan, cut with knife, and drop into hot oil. Repeat until churro bites fill saucepan with room to fry. 

Fry churro bites until golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon or mesh spider strainer. Drain churro bites on paper towel.

Mix sugar and ½ teaspoon cinnamon in medium bowl. Toss in churro bites until coated. Place on serving plate and serve with favorite dipping sauce.

Gnocchi

Pasta and potatoes. What’s not to love? The tiny little dumplings called gnocchi are made simply from potatoes, flour, and egg with a pinch of salt. Simple ingredients make a pretty fantastic dish.

These little nuggets can be dense if too much flour is added and light and pillowy if done right. But either way, no one can deny they are the quintessential comfort food. Best on cold, dreary evenings, they can be paired with a meat sauce, a simple tomato sauce, or even just a little butter, sage, and grated parmesan cheese. 

The dish originated in Italy in the northern region because that area could grow potatoes better than grain. Gnocchi dates back to probably the late 17th to early 18th  century, well beyond the time when potatoes were introduced from the Americas. There are earlier versions of the pasta called gnocchi that substitute the potatoes with breadcrumbs or even squash. There are similar dumpling dishes throughout Europe, but it is most often associated with Italy.

Making the dough is not much different than making regular pasta. You simply add the mashed potatoes. Gnocchi is an easy go-to recipe when you’ve got leftovers. I just happened to make shepherd’s pie earlier this week, so I had mashed potatoes on hand. Otherwise, make the extra cooking step of boiling the potatoes and sieving them through a ricer. While the mashed potato version is perfectly fine, I think ricing the potatoes make a lighter, fluffier gnocco (the singular of gnocchi).

Here’s the recipe:

2 c. mashed potatoes 

2 c. all-purpose flour 

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Pinch of salt

In a mixing bowl, combine the potatoes, flour, and eggs. This can also be done in a food processor, if you prefer. Use the flour, all-purpose or a split of all-purpose and semolina, a little bit at a time as you are mixing. You may not need all of it. (Extra flour can be used for dusting.) Once the dough has been combined, cut into four parts using a pastry cutter. (The cutter will help you scrape up little bits of dough, too.) In the meantime, boil four quarts of salted water.

On a floured surface, roll out the dough until it is a long rope about an inch thick. Using the cutter, chop dough into one-inch segments. Using a fork, scrape the tines across each segment to make a ridge on each piece. (The ridges help trap the sauce.) Place on floured parchment paper.

When the water is boiling, toss in your gnocchi. When they are done, they will rise to the surface. Drain and serve immediately with your favorite sauce.

Buon appetito!

Chicken Liver Pate

My memories of beef liver came from my dad. He loved it—couldn’t get enough of it. To me, it was the worst smelling thing on the planet. Then, he put it with onions as if that somehow toned down the smell. The house would reek for days. For most people, the moment you mention the word “liver” they’ve already tuned you out.

But we’re not talking about beef liver here. We’re talking about chicken liver. And, once it’s whizzed up into a paste and spread on toasty baguette slices, you’ve probably forgotten the word liver completely.

The best part is it’s super easy to make. Aside from the liver, it’s shallots, thyme, butter, cream, Cognac, and salt and pepper. It’s not this fussy recipe that needs special equipment and braising for three hours. It usually takes about a half hour to make. Chicken livers are easily found in your local grocery store. You can get duck or goose liver, but you’ll probably have to seek out a good butcher for that. 

Pate is that light brown spread that goes with teeny tiny pickles like cornichons, maybe some pickled onions, and crusty bread. Often put with charcuterie boards littered with salami, nuts, and olives, it’s a great accompaniment but can also be the sole feature of your appetizer if you like. 

Here’s the recipe:

1/2 stick of butter, about 4 TB

1 large shallot, minced

3 sprigs of fresh thyme, stripped of leaves

1 lb. chicken livers

1 TB cognac

3 TB heavy cream.

Salt and pepper to taste

In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Sautee the shallots until translucent. Add the thyme leaves and the salt and pepper and cook for another minute or two. Add the chicken livers and sauté until they are cooked all the way through. Then, add the cognac at the end, simmering for a few minutes, and then turn off the heat. Pour the contents of the pan into a food processor. Mix the contents while slowly adding the cream until you’ve reached a nice smooth consistency. Place in a glass jar or whatever vessel you wish to serve it in and chill for one hour. Serve with toasted baguette slices.

Coconut Rice

Courtesy of Bon Appetit

I have to tell you a secret. I’ve recently discovered something that makes rice taste out-of-this world good: coconut milk. Honestly, I don’t know why I didn’t try it sooner. It’s tasty, yes. But it’s also versatile. Feeling a little Asian for dinner? No problem. Add a little cilantro and maybe some mango with black sesame seeds and you’ve got it going on, baby. Or, why not pair it with Jerk chicken for a little Caribbean feel. Frankly, I would put it with just about any lean protein—grilled salmon, roast chicken, flat iron steak, lamb kebabs, you name it.

You can easily do it on the stove top if you don’t have a cooker. (Although, I highly suggest you get one if you cook rice with any regularity. It just makes things so much easier at dinner time.) But here’s how I make it in my rice cooker.

2 c. white rice (Jasmine, Basmati, or long grain of your choice)

1 tsp. salt

1 14-oz. can of coconut milk

In a strainer or chinois, rinse your 2 cups of rice in cold water until the water runs clear. This will make your rice fluffier. In your rice cooker, combine the rice and salt with the coconut milk. You may need to add a little water if the level of liquid doesn’t quite cover the rice. Set the cooker to the white rice indicator and let it cook. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve. 

Lemon Posset

Pucker up, people! This dish is totally worth it.

My first experience with lemon posset was at Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster in Harlem. I’d never heard of the dessert, but one taste got me hooked. I’ve been dreaming about it ever since.

Lemon posset actually dates back to medieval England. It was initially a creamy, boozy drink that morphed into the tangy pudding it is today—sans booze, sadly. It’s silky smoothness and complex flavor makes it seem like it would be a fussy dessert with lots of ingredients and special equipment. Not so. It is literally three ingredients and takes about 15 minutes of your time with a saucepan and a whisk.

But be careful. The cream can boil over pretty easily. That ends up making a more watery consistency and the sugar in it retains a grainy texture. No good. It needs to come to a soft boil, pushed down to a simmer for five minutes, then take it off the heat. 

And, it definitely needs to chill for a while. Let it rest in ramekins for at least two hours before serving. A few berries, some mint, or even a tiny dollop of fresh whipped cream and you are good to go!

Here’s the recipe:

2 c. cream

2/3 c. granulated sugar

2 lemons, juice and zest

Zest and juice two lemons and set aside.

Place the cream in a saucepan on medium high heat to bring to boil. Stirring constantly, slowly add the sugar to completely dissolve it into the cream. Add the lemon zest and juice, stirring it in as you go. Once the cream comes to a boil, turn the heat down to simmer for five minutes. 

Let the mixture cool off for 5-10 minutes. Then, strain in a chinois to remove the zest. Pour into separate ramekins (makes approximately enough for 6). Cover in plastic wrap and chill for at least two hours.

Serve with your favorite berries or whipped cream and enjoy!

Panzanella

We can thank the Tuscans for making a summer salad of stale bread and overripe tomatoes. They called it panzanella as a combined term of “pane” for bread and “zanella” for the deep dish it is typically served in. Regardless of the name, it’s an ingenious way to use up leftovers.

It’s also a really cheap and easy dish when you don’t feel like making too much for dinner. In the sultry summer evenings, the last thing you want to do is turn on the oven. Fortunately, this is one of those dishes that doesn’t need a lick of heat.

Historians say the original dish was based on bread and onions. Tomatoes only came into the picture in the 20th century. Red onion serves the recipe best as it has not only color but kick. And the tomatoes offer their flavor and juice to give a little boost to the dressing. Sometimes mozzarella is used, but I prefer feta. I also like to add Kalamata olives. It may be a Tuscan dish, but I give it a little Greek flavor because the recipe often calls for cucumbers. That marriage of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, and feta is a winning Greek flavor profile. Adding capers and fresh basil and oregano round it out.

Here’s the recipe:

1 loaf day-old baguette or ciabatta

8 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved

1 hothouse cucumber, seeded and diced

1/2 red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 c. Kalamata olives

1/2 c. crumbled feta

1 TB. capers

2 TB. olive oil

2 TB. red wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp. basil

1 tsp. oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

For the bread, cut into large cubes. Coat with olive oil and salt and pepper. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or rub in more olive oil so that bread doesn’t stick to the pan. Bake at 375 for 15-20 min or until golden and crunchy. Set aside.

Mix together the oil, vinegar, Dijon, basil, and oregano. In a separate bowl, combine the tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, capers, onions, and feta. Add the dressing. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Add the croutons and serve.

Red Rooster

My family and I have had Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster on our bucket list since it opened in Harlem in December 2010. Obviously, it took us a while to get there. But get there we did and it was worth the trip. If you’re looking for down home cooking with a little Scandinavian twist, you’ve come to the right place.

But first, let’s talk about the vibe. Because the weather was nice, it has a nice section of the sidewalk reserved for outdoor dining—like every other restaurant in New York City with a little patch of concrete. Inside, music bumps and grinds to the jive of its clientele. People mill about the circular copper bar with funky drinks in their hands. I got not one but three hellos as we walked in. The dining area has round tables as it does communal tables with high chairs near the open kitchen. They serve lunch, brunch, and dinner with an afternoon bar menu. Prices (for New York City) are very reasonable with entrees hovering in the $25 range.

Now, for the food. There’s pork and there’s beef. (His grandmother’s recipe for meatballs was outrageously yummy in an olive-flecked tomato sauce.) There’s even a little bit of goat if you’re up for the challenge. (I find goat tasty but more bony than meaty.) But the clear star of the show is chicken, chicken, chicken. I’m not talking about any old dried bird. I’m talking honey coated fried chicken with just a hint of heat. Jerk chicken with at least five different discernible spices on the palate. Chicken and waffles—a down home must. And don’t forget the hot wings. You can even get a whole chicken fried and served with macaroni and cheese, biscuits, collard greens, and black beans. If you come with a group, I suggest their “It Takes Two” section of the menu. Gigantic portions could be easily shared with more than one person.

The collard greens were my first hint of the Swedish twist. Samuelsson, who was born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, always puts something in his dishes that remind him of home. The greens had that touch of something else—nutmeg or allspice. The kind of taste you expect to find in Swedish meatballs. He often includes pickled vegetables, particularly red onions, as a garnish. (Scandinavians love pickled everything.) The cornbread came with lingonberry butter. Who eats lingonberries? Swedes, obviously.

But the dish with the biggest surprise was for dessert. A lemon posset that was simultaneously sweet and tart. With a puckery tang and the silkiness of honey, it delivered a lemony punch complete with shortbread crumble. This dish made me want to run right home and make my own posset just so I could have some more. An English custard originally made as a drink of all things, posset has been making its way onto American menus in the past few years. Yet, it is nothing more than three simple ingredients: sugar, cream, and lemon juice. Simple. Elegant. Delicious.

I won’t say the next time I’m in Harlem I will definitely drop in. I will, however, make the trip to Harlem sometime very soon. This place is too good to pass up. I’ll be dreaming of that posset until then.