Kung Pao…Anything

There are certain sauces that can top almost anything. Tomato. Béarnaise. Cheese. But there’s one dressing that kicks up just about any food group: Kung Pao. It’s got a little heat and a little sweet with a touch of umami. It’s a fun mixture of chili sauce, honey, and soy. 

Sure, you can put it with chicken. But why not try it as a marinade for flank steak or even shrimp skewers? Any kind of protein will take nicely to the sauce. But I think the best use is for vegetables. Try it sautéed with broccoli rabe or bok choy. How about cauliflower steaks or Brussels sprouts? I did the sprouts in Kung Pao last Thanksgiving and it was a real hit.

It’s a versatile sauce that you can add cornstarch to or not. I actually prefer it without. Sometimes, I stir in a little more sambal oelek or Sriracha if I want to turn up the heat, add more soy to calm it down, or more honey to sweeten it up. Play with the percentages to see which taste you like better. If you don’t have honey, dark brown sugar will suffice. Adding peanuts gives it a crunch element, although you can just add a tablespoon of peanut butter if you like the nut taste but not the texture. Neither one is necessary, however.

Either way, it’s a great base to start with and certainly takes the doldrums out of cooking dinner.

Here’s the recipe:

½ c. soy sauce
3 TB honey
2 TB sambal oelek
1 TB oil (canola or peanut)
2 tsp rice wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 TB ginger, minced
1 TB scallions, chopped


Scenes from France

Nine years ago, I traveled through the winding pastures of France in the Champagne region. Lush terrain with the chance for a glass of bubbly at every turn. It gave me a passion for the farm estate makers that have lovingly created small batches of sparkling for generations. But this year’s trip to France was entirely different.

My family and I covered southern France this time, mainly Provence with a quick sidebar in the Riviera. While Champagne had been a pregnant green, Provence was arid and chalky. The ground’s surface a boxing ring for sunlight. (Perfect conditions for vines to render concentrated grape juice, however.)

I could wax rhapsodic evoking Peter Mayle and his infamous year in Provence. His main focus may have been renovating an 18th century farmhouse, but the real nugget of truth about the region is life’s joys—food, wine, and a very languid pace. It is a culture, much like the rest of the Mediterranean, that respects the pleasures life has to offer and believes you should exercise that pleasure every day.

What struck me most during this visit was the emphasis on quality, not quantity. Whether we like to admit it or not, this is the antithesis of American life. We focus on the biggest bang for our buck. Get a Big Gulp for half price with two Slushies and a Twinkie? Awesome! For the French, the pleasure of food and wine is about savoring not only the flavors of the product but the effort that went in to making that product. It is a respect for our surroundings—land, sea, air, and all the things in them—that differentiates the French from us.

Americans tend to take things for granted. We have gotten used to the gigantic, tasteless strawberries in the supermarket because we’ve forgotten what a real strawberry straight off the vine tastes like. We think a block of cheese is an orange brick with a picture of Pocahontas on it. The U.S. has certainly undergone a food renaissance in recent years, but we still have a long way to go.

That brings me to the subject of how the French make bread. This is something, quite frankly, the French have perfected. A crusty baguette is one of the most perfect foods. Crunchy on the outside, soft and pillowy on the inside. The Italians and the Spanish have bread, but it is merely used as a carbohydrate spoon. You mop up olive oil or sauce with it, but you don’t linger on it. The French make a loaf of bread like a long-lost lover you’ve suddenly reconnected with and never want to lose again.

French baking is an art form. Because of that, they don’t hork down a whole log of it in one sitting. They have a few pieces with a picnic in the park or perhaps a hunk of it with jam and coffee as a morning pick-me-up. They certainly don’t lob it down their gullet as fast as possible while doing 10 other things before heading out the door. And, they don’t eat standing up. One must savor one’s food to completely enjoy it. (Hence, the lazy pace.)

When on vacation, I often take pictures of the food I eat because I want to remember the dish in order to recreate it back home. This time, I didn’t fumble for the camera on my iPhone. I ate with gusto, not caring that what I was thoroughly enjoying would never see the light of day on Facebook. I didn’t feel the need to take a selfie with my salade Niçoise.

I walked away from this trip hoping to take just a tiny piece of that leisurely lifestyle with me. It’s a slice of France I want to have with me even when I’m not on vacation.