Ciabatta

This is the Italian answer to a French baguette. In fact, ciabattas were made in the Veneto region of Italy as a reaction to the popularity of the sleek French loaf. A little over thirty years old, the ciabatta, or “slipper” in Italian, has a crunchy outside with a light, chewy inside with enough holes to rival Swiss cheese. 

Many recipes require stages of kneading the dough and letting it rest. Part of what drives that is how wet the dough is at first. Eventually, the loaf becomes a floured boule you roll out onto a floured surface. The resting period can be anywhere from a few hours to overnight. The longer the better, obviously. But if you don’t have that much time, you can make this recipe in the better half of an afternoon. 

And, don’t skip the liberal coating of olive oil. It makes a huge difference in the dough. Some recipes call for vegetable oil. But, please. This is Italian bread. Of course, you use olive oil.

Some areas of Italy will coat the loaf with sea salt and others, like in Rome, coat it with a dusting of thyme, oregano, or marjoram. Some even stuff the breads with salamis and cheeses. But to me, that depletes the joy of this simple bread. I think it is best enjoyed still warm from the oven and dipped into a little olive oil with a pinch of sea salt and red pepper flakes.

Here’s the recipe:

1 ½ teaspoons active dry yeast

1/4 c. hot-to-the-touch water (about 100 to 110 degrees)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

16 ounces unbleached bread flour

2/3 c. ounces room-temperature water

Olive oil (for coating the bowls)

Cornmeal (for sprinkling on the baking stone)

Sprinkle the yeast on top of the hot water to let it dissolve and set aside. Then, sprinkle the salt on top of the flour and stir to incorporate. Make a well in the center of the flour/salt mixture and add the cool water little by little. Lightly mix together. After the yeast has dissolved into the warm water, add it to the mixture and stir to fully incorporate. Let the mixture sit for 30 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. 

Here comes the folding and the resting:

After 30 minutes, sprinkle flour on your work surface, then scrape the dough out onto it. Tap your hands in a little flour, then gently flatten the dough into a rectangle, with the short side facing you. Fold the top edge down to just below the center, then flip the bottom side up above the center. Do the same with each side, then turn dough over and dust off the flour. Place the folded dough in a bowl slicked with olive oil and let it sit for another 30 minutes covered with plastic wrap.

After 30 minutes are up, fold the dough again, using the same method as above. Place the dough in a second oiled bowl, covered with plastic, and let it ferment until it has doubled in volume, 1 to 2 hours.

After the dough has doubled in volume, sprinkle a little more flour onto your workspace. Use the same folding method as before. Cover with oiled plastic wrap and let it rise for another 30 minutes.

As the dough is rising, preheat the oven to 475 degrees, and put a baking stone on the middle rack, and an empty pan (for water) on the bottom rack. Sprinkle more flour on the counter and use the same folding method again. Separate the dough into two pieces and form logs. 

Sprinkle a mixture of cornmeal and flour on the baking stone. Scoot the ciabatta pieces off the sheet tray and onto the stone. Pour water into the pan on the bottom rack in order to make steam; you can also spritz the loaves with water. There will be a lot of sizzling, so be careful not to get your face too close.

Bake to a deep brown in approximately 30 minutes. Let the bread cool before cutting into it.

Tabbouleh

Like hummus, pita, falafel, and baba ghanoush, tabbouleh is another Middle Eastern dish that has been embraced by westerners. Typical of places like Syria and Lebanon, it is usually made with cracked or bulghur wheat. Cous cous is often substituted. But the base is a grain that acts as a canvas for the vegetables and herbs added to it.

Originally served as a mezze, or the Arabic version of tapas, it is often used as a side dish accompanying the rest of a meal or as a main dish with an added side salad here in the U.S. Herbs like parsley and mint are frequently included as well as cucumbers and tomatoes. Adding chick peas and feta makes it a bit more of a meal than just a side dish. 

The vinaigrette is a lemon juice-olive oil mix. This is the kind of oil and acid combination that can be used on a host of different salads and offers a fantastic base for other dressings. Add a little Dijon, red pepper flakes, cumin, and chopped oregano and you’ve got yourself a nice marinade for just about anything.

In this recipe, I added the chick peas and the feta. I think the chick peas are a little more essential than the feta if you want this to be a heartier part of your meal. But if it’s just a side dish, you can leave both beans and cheese out.

Here’s the recipe:

1 c. bulghur wheat

1 1/2 c. boiling water

1/4 c. lemon juice (about 2 lemons)

1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil

3 1/2 tsp kosher salt

1 c. minced scallions

1 c. mint leaves, chopped

1 c. parsley, chopped

1 c. cucumber, seeded and diced

2 c. cherry tomatoes, halved

1 c. canned chick peas, drained

1 tsp. black pepper

1 c. feta (optional)

Place the bulghur in a large bowl, pour in the boiling water and add the lemon juice, olive oil, and salt. Stir and let stand for 1 hour until room temperature.

Add the scallions, mint, parsley, cucumber, tomatoes, and the ground black pepper. Mix well. Can be served immediately or covered and refrigerated.

Biscotti

If ever there was a treat so evocative of Italy, it's biscotti. Biscotti actually means twice-baked from the Old Latin (“bis” means twice and “cotto” means baked). These little darlings are crisp with just a tiny bit of chew to avoid breaking your teeth. Often dunked in coffee, espresso, or even liqueurs like Amaretto, grappa, or Vin Santo, they are great to have on hand because they keep well. 

While biscotti are typically almond based, there is a long list of other ingredients that can go into the cookie base. Any form of chocolate—chip, chunk, dark, milk, white—is a pretty frequent sighting. Besides almonds, other nuts like pine nuts, pistachios, walnuts, and hazelnuts are pretty common as well. Dried fruits like cranberries, apricots, or even dates are often included. Citrus zest. Shredded coconut. Really, the sky’s the limit for these little guys.

The base batter is made with four fundamental ingredients: flour, sugar, eggs, and butter or oil. The wetter the added ingredients, the softer the cookie. There are some who claim that only a truly crisp, dry cookie is a traditional biscotto (singular for biscotti). But then, there are those that prefer just a little give. Too dry and you really could require immediate dental work. Too soft, and it’s not really a biscotto—just a cookie. You’ve got to walk a fine line and I think it’s all in the second baking that makes a difference.

Here's the recipe I like:

3 1/4 c. flour

1 c. white sugar

3 eggs

1/2 c. vegetable oil

1 TB baking powder

A few drops of almond extract, optional

1/2 c. dark chocolate chips, melted

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line baking sheet with parchment.

In a mixing bowl, combine all the wet ingredients together. In a separate bowl, sift in the dry. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the wet. (If you wanted to add extra ingredients like chocolate chips or nuts, this is a good time to do so.) Once the dough is blended, fold out onto a floured cutting board and roll into a log form. Divide into two pieces. Press down so that dough is about a 1/2 inch in thickness.

Bake the two logs for 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool on a rack. When suitable to handle, cut into 1/2-inch slices. Place back on parchment baking sheet, cut side up. Bake for another 6-10 minutes until lightly toasted. Let cool again on a wire rack. 

In the meantime, set a sauce pan with water to boil on medium-low heat. In a metal bowl sitting on top of the pan, place the chocolate chips. Stir until fully melted. Let the chocolate cool just a little bit. Then, with a fork, drizzle the melted chocolate over the top of the biscotti and let it set.

Buonissimo!

Impressions of Sydney

Australia as a family vacation has been a long time in coming. We’ve talked about it for years, always hanging out there in the distance as a bulleted entry on a bucket list. But with a few thousand frequent flyer miles, we managed to make the long slog Down Under this summer.

What struck me most was how Australia seems to be as much of an amalgamation of its influences as the U.S. is. Colonized generally within the same time frame, many of the buildings in Sydney’s center had that Victorian era-Industrial Revolution brick look. The attitude seemed more low-key, more American. But yet, there was a definite European feel—open air farmer’s markets, fresh flower kiosks, butchers, fishmongers, cheese boutiques and wine shops. Then, there was an undoubtedly Asian flair. Sydney, like so many major metropolitan areas, is home to a phenomenal Chinatown and Thai town. The best meals you’ll probably have will be Asian or Asian-fusion. And because it’s a port city, there’s a big emphasis on fresh seafood. 

Sipping shiraz or soft whites made from a mix of chardonnay and Semillon made for a lovely glass of wine. From the Hunter and Yarra valleys within a few hours’ drive of Sydney, the wines of Australia may be New World. But like the wines from Old World countries, they exhibit distinct terroir. While many reds broke onto the world stage as fruit bombs, Australia has learned to temper their flavor and balance it out a little more. No longer a jammy assault on the senses, there was nuance instead. Reds had backbone and just a little astringency. Whites were surprisingly round, full, and supple without being overpowering. It's a shame that too many wine shops here in the States sell Australia’s fruit bombs rather than offer some of the better wines you can find there.

While a 20-hour flight time is daunting, I would love to go back. What will it be this time—Melbourne? Adelaide? Brisbane? Only time will tell….

Crêpes

In my hometown, there is a little French guy in a little yellow food truck that parks by the library around noon every weekday. He sells his crêpes, both savory and sweet. Fresh seasonal produce graces the savory while you are sure to see all manner of fruit with, mais bien sur, Nutella.

Crêpes are really just a very thin pancakes that have been around for hundreds of years. Most often associated with France, iterations of them can be found from England and Norway to Greece and beyond. They are most often served with powdered sugar, strawberry preserves, or even maple syrup. They can be made with different types of flour, like buckwheat. Or if you like, cocoa can be added to the batter to make chocolate crêpes. 

And now, Disney is getting into the act. Adding a Ratatouille-themed ride in the France section of Epcot, there will now be a crêpe stand outside the pathway to the entrance. It is set to have a “build-your-own” format. Want it with mushrooms and cheese? Sure, no problem. Like it with whipped cream and chocolate chips? Sky’s the limit.

Here’s a recipe to make your own:

1/2 c. all-purpose flour

1/2 c. milk

1/4 c. lukewarm water

2 large eggs

2 TB unsalted butter, melted

1 1/2 tsp sugar

Pinch of salt

Combine all ingredients. Best to use a pitcher with a pour spout. Let mixture sit for about a half hour so the flour can absorb all the liquid. Gently pour into buttered crêpe pan on low heat, tilting pan and rotating so a thin layer coats the bottom. Cook until golden, flip over, and cook the other side. Et voilà!

Cooking for a Crowd

The trick to cooking for a large group of people is to have a recipe that’s as quick and easy to make as it is crowd-pleasing. Lasagna. Chili. Macaroni and cheese. A spiraled ham. These are often the go-to dishes, and for good reason.

Funny, every time I even consider a ham I think of my dad. We lived in an area where the power would go out if the wind blew a little. So, he would always pose the question when a storm was in the forecast, “Should I get a ham?!?” He could cook it up and leave it in the pot for a few days because it was still good. Who needs refrigeration when you’ve got a ham?

Recently, I was tasked with cooking for our local soup kitchen. About 50 to 75 people stop by for meals on Tuesdays, so I needed something not only filling but on the healthy side. Fruit and salad are always good side dishes, but you can count on leftovers. 

For the entrée, I always like to make pasta with a hearty meat sauce. The pasta should be elbows, shells, or fun shapes like rotini or cavatelli. Anything that can trap the sauce is a good bet. And for this crowd, I boiled up about three pounds. The sauce is a sturdy Bolognese. Start with a mirepoix adding garlic, salt and pepper, and herbs. Sweat the veg and add the ground beef to cook through. When that’s ready, add a half cup of wine. The wine and the beef juice make a sort of gravy of its own, but make sure you reduce the liquid by half. Otherwise, it’s too soupy. Crushed tomatoes round it out. Now, simmer down. 

Here’s the recipe for the Bolognese:

1 large onion, diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 c. carrots, diced

1 c. celery, diced

3 lbs. ground beef

1 TB olive oil

1/2 c red wine

2-28 oz. cans of crushed tomatoes

2 tsp kosher salt

2 tsp ground black pepper

1 TB oregano

1 TB herbes de Provence

In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil. Add the onion with the salt and pepper and sweat until fragrant. Put in the garlic for about a minute of heat and then add the carrots and celery. Cook until veg is tender. Add the beef and herbs and cook through, stirring occasionally. Now add the wine and stir. Cook the liquid down to about half and then add the crushed tomatoes. Let the mixture simmer until thickened, about 20-25 minutes. Serve with your pasta!

Lemon bars

Part cookie, part lemon custard, these little beauties are the undersung heroes of the dessert world. Often passed over for the ever-popular chocolate chip cookie, they should be more appreciated than they are. The thing is, I love lemon bars, yet I still don’t think of them as a go-to dessert. I should. They are light and gooey all at the same time—like a squishy version of a Jelly Belly jelly bean.

I’ve seen a number of different recipes with varying quantities of flour, sugar, eggs, and lemon juice. But the one thing I think is key to making really lemony lemon bars is the zest, which many recipes don’t bother to include. In fact, it’s actually the zest of citrus fruits that carries the biggest punch. The juice is really just a runner-up. Plus, the more juice you add in order to get that lemony flavor, the runnier the filling.   

Lemon bars are also a quick and easy housewarming gift. Not everyone likes chocolate desserts and some may even be allergic. Unless you’re gluten-free, these babies are a crowd pleaser. You can cut them into squares or triangles making them great finger food.

Here’s the recipe:

For the crust:

1/2 pound unsalted butter

1/2 c. granulated sugar

2 c. flour

1/8 tsp. kosher salt

For the filling:

5 large eggs, room temperature

3 c. granulated sugar

2 Tb. lemon zest (about 4 large lemons)

1 c. lemon juice

1 c. flour

Powdered sugar for dusting

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.

Cream the butter and sugar, pulsing together in a food processor. Gradually add the flour and salt. On a floured surface, gather dough into a ball and then press out into a 9X13 pan. Bake for 15-20 minutes. Let cool.

Whisk together eggs, sugar, zest, and juice. Gradually add flour. Pour over cooled crust and bake until set, about 30-35 minutes. Let cool on wire rack and dust with powdered sugar before serving. Can be cut into squares or triangles.