Cucumber Soup

It strikes me how we turn to cold summer soups around the time we have the hottest temperatures and the biggest return on investment in the garden. Late August to mid-September is a key time to pull in a sizeable harvest—sometimes more sizeable than we anticipated. That, of course, is what happened with my cucumbers this year. I got more than I bargained for.

 

What to do? Cucumber soup. Sure, I could have made gazpacho, which typically calls for the coolness of cucumbers to round out the rich, tomato-y flavor. But I wanted something that really highlighted the vegetable as the star of the show.

 

And cucumbers have been a star for thousands of years. An annual plant and what’s called a creeping vine, it winds itself around whatever is nearest in its surrounding environment. Often credited with origins in east Asia—China, Thailand, and more specifically India—it now grows in most regions around the world. Typical variations include slicing, pickling, or seedless. For our purposes here, the slicing cucumbers are probably best.

 

In this recipe, I use plain Greek yogurt. You could try substituting other bases like crème fraiche or sour cream, silken tofu, or labneh, which is really just another type of yogurt. But I think the tang of the Greek yogurt works better here especially because I add lemon juice and zest. 

 

Here’s the recipe:

 

2 large cucumbers, seeded and roughly cut into chunks

1 ½ c. Greek yogurt

1 large lemon, juice and zest

1 small shallot, minced

1 large garlic clove, minced

1/3 c. fresh dill (or 1 TB dried)

1/4 c. fresh parsley (or 1 tsp dried)

1/4 c. olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

 

Place ingredients in blender or food processor and blend until smooth. (I prefer the blender for this because it creates a more even mixture, but you could use the food processor if you’d like something a little chunkier and more like a cucumber rendition of gazpacho.) Refrigerate for at least an hour before serving. Tastes great the next day too!

Vietnamese Spring Rolls

With rice paper wrappings, these translucent little gems are light, bright, and tasty. However, they actually aren’t all that easy to make. The wrappers shred pretty easily so they’re a little finicky to put together.

I used the typical ingredients: shrimp, lettuce, vermicelli noodles, cilantro, mint, sliced cucumbers and shredded carrots. For the shrimp, I parboiled them in salted water with a half lemon. That made them far more flavorful than just a straight boil in water alone. After chopping and preparing the rest of the ingredients, I was ready to wrap.

The wrappers are supposed to be dipped in water to make them pliable. Looking back on it, I think the next time I try it I will spray them with water to get them moist rather than dunk them. When wet, they rip making it difficult to roll the ingredients together. 

After steaming the first few of them, I tried the ingredients in egg roll wrappers. I steamed and oil-fried the egg rolls. While clearly the less healthy option, fried was much yummier.

Shrimp is often the main component of spring rolls, but you can use other items like shredded chicken or pork. Or, you can just go vegetarian and not worry about a meat element. Either way, make sure you’ve got some snappy sauces to dip in. I put out a well of soy sauce but accompanied that with a zippy peanut sauce. The two were a nice contrast.

Here’s the recipe for the rolls and the sauce:

For the rolls:

2 oz. rice vermicelli, boiled and drained

8 rice wrappers

8 large cooked shrimp

1 small cucumber, sliced

1/2 c. shredded carrot

Fresh mint leaves

Fresh cilantro

8 butter lettuce leaves

 

Peanut sauce:

1 c. peanut butter

1/2 c. soy

1 TB honey

1 TB rice wine vinegar

1 tsp sesame oil

1 tsp sambal oelek

1/2 c. warm water

 

Boil salted water for the noodles, cook, drain, and set aside. Then boil salted water with a half lemon for the shrimp, cook, drain and let cool. In the meantime, dip the rice wrappers in water or spray with water to moisten. Place a lettuce leaf on top of the wrapper as a catch-all for the other ingredients. Layer the noodles, shrimp, veg, and herbs. Curl the ends of the wrapper around the contents like a burrito, folding opposite sides over before rolling. Place in a lined bamboo steamer and steam for about 6 minutes.

For the sauce, combine all the ingredients except the water in a stainless steel bowl. While whisking, stir the warm water in batches to soften the peanut butter. If you like it crunchy, you can serve it with chopped peanuts.

Dip in and enjoy! 

Not Just One Kind of Pesto…

The classic pesto recipe uses a combination of fresh basil, parmesan, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil and salt and pepper. It can be used with pasta, salads, or even a vegetable dip as a change from other dressings. But those things are not the only ingredients that can be used for pesto. There is a wide range of other mixtures that can kick your classic pesto game up a notch. 

Don’t get me wrong, basil is great. But your greens don’t have to stick with just that. Give kale, parsley, cilantro or mint a try. And don’t forget about other leafy options like arugula, spinach, or even watercress. For cheese, parmesan may be the go-to but switching it up with other ones like manchego, gruyere, or cheddar may be nifty for a change. 

But don’t stop there. When it comes to the nuts, luckily there’s a world of them to choose from. Try walnuts, pistachios, or even almonds. Cashews, pistachios, or even hazelnuts make a good addition. I made a luscious citrus walnut pesto that was great on white flaky fish like cod, haddock, or even tilapia. Using the zest and juice of one lemon and one orange along with a little salt and pepper, walnuts, grated parmesan, and parsley, it made for a thick mixture that, frankly, I’d be happy to eat by just dipping in a crusty baguette.

Sure, garlic can always be added to a pesto. Other ingredients can make it tasty, too. How about red pepper flakes for a really good zing? Thyme, rosemary, oregano are great choices. Even tarragon, although my advice is to be sparing with this one. Too much tarragon can be overpowering. 

And as with other condiments, you can include different fruits and veg. Sun dried tomato, roasted red pepper, or your favorite kind of olive makes it unique. Whatever you choose, concentrate on the pairings in your flavor profile. Pick foods that go well together but aren’t necessarily standard. In the end, there’s always more than one way to make a pesto. 

Use this basic basil recipe as the guide for all the other ingredients. All of this can be whizzed up in a food processor:

4 c. fresh basil (about 3 large bunches)
1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil
1/3 c. pine nuts
1/2 c. parmesan
2 garlic cloves
salt and pepper to taste

Cashew Nam Prik

I saw an interesting recipe in the latest edition of Bon Appetit. Cashew nam prik is a riff on a staple Thai recipe. The first report of it is from a French ambassador to then Siam in the late 17th century. Since then, it has appeared throughout southern Asia with a variety of ingredients—including mushrooms, mackerel, and even what’s known as a “Giant Waterbug.” 

The base is usually pork with eggplant frequently incorporated. But in this case, the meat is replaced by cashews, which lends flavor and texture and makes the dish more vegetarian-friendly. Like many Asian dishes, it uses the umami punch of fish sauce and a kick of heat. Offset that with lettuce cups, raw veg, and some mango chunks and you’ve got yourself a great appetizer or a light summer meal.

Typically meant as a dip or a condiment to accompany a central meal, it is often prepared in a mortar and pestle. In this case, a food processor is suggested, and frankly I’d prefer that than crushing the ingredients in a tiny bowl. Adding to the umami fish sauce, a shrimp paste is often at the central base mixed together with the chilies, shallots, and lime juice. 

This recipe called for a few things I might change. Two examples: tomatoes and lemongrass. I skipped the lemongrass. As far as I'm concerned, it’s like having a face full of soap for dinner. With the tomatoes, I think the paste is essential. But sautéing the tomatoes down with the cashews gave it a chunky consistency I don’t think I would repeat. Instead, I might choose larger tomatoes—halved Roma or even beefsteak—to roast separately rather than the cherry tomatoes in the original recipe. Those could be placed on top of the dip when serving and eaten as an extra embellishment with the lettuce cups. And if you can’t get any Thai chilies, jalapenos or serrano chilies are a perfectly suitable substitute. You can also use a tablespoon of sambal oelek or another chili sauce like Sriracha.

Here’s the recipe:

1 c. raw cashews

3 jalapenos, chopped or 1 TB sambal oelek

2 medium shallots, chopped

5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

Finely grated zest from 2 limes (about 3 tsp.)

1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more

3 Tbsp. canola oil

1 Tbsp. tomato paste

8 oz. Roma, halved and roasted

1 Tbsp. fish sauce

1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro leaves with tender stems

Bibb or Little Gem lettuce leaves, sliced cucumbers, sliced mango, and soft-boiled eggs (for serving)

Pulse cashews in a food processor until pieces are no larger than ¼". Transfers cashews to a medium bowl (it’s okay if some of the cashews have gone all the way to powder, which will thicken the dip).

Pulse chilies or chili sauce, shallots, garlic, lime zest, and 1 tsp. salt in food processor until very finely chopped. Scrape down sides and continue to pulse until a coarse paste forms. Transfer curry paste to a small bowl.

Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium. Add cashews and cook, stirring often, until golden brown in most spots, 4–6 minutes. Add curry paste and cook, stirring often, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until mixture starts to stick to bottom pot, about 2 minutes. Add a splash of water and cook, scraping any browned bits that may have stuck to bottom of pot and mixture is thickened, 7–10 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in fish sauce and lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt. Transfer nam prik to a medium bowl. Top with the roasted tomatoes and cilantro. Serve nam prik warm with lettuce, cucumbers, mango, or some soft boiled eggs alongside.

Enjoy! 

Churros

My favorite memory of churros comes from a trip to Madrid a few years ago. Across the street from our rented apartment, there was a mini plaza with a bakery on the corner. They sold these long golden churros with hot chocolate to dip in. For my family, particularly my three daughters, this afternoon snack was the highlight of the day. Who cares about Plaza Mayor, the Prado museum, or even the Mercado de San Miguel when there are churros to be devoured?

Churros have been a hit for centuries in Spanish-speaking countries all over the world. Food historians speculate that an early version was brought to Europe from China. But churros are not alone in the world of fried dough. From beignets to falafel to samosas, there is a broad range of fried dough dishes, both savory and sweet.

Recently, Disney released a copy of their popular churros recipe, so I gave it a try. Rather than the long or spiraled version, these are bite-sized. While it is a fairly straight-forward combination of eggs, flour, water, and butter, the magic comes from its preparation. Bringing the water to a boil with the butter and cinnamon gradually adding the flour creates a warm dough ball. The ball is then meant to rest for a few minutes to cool so the eggs can then be added. That’s fine, but I found that part unnecessarily difficult. The next time I make them, I may actually add beaten eggs in a slow stream to the slightly cooled liquid before adding the flour. That way, you have a fully formed dough ball with all the essential ingredients instead of trying to add the eggs to an already-formed ball.

Coat the churros in cinnamon sugar or leave them plain and dip them in melted chocolate, Nutella, or even dulce de leche. For the recipe, just click on the link above or use the instructions below. Have fun!

1 c. water

8 TB butter (1 stick)

1/4 tsp. salt

3/4 tsp. cinnamon, divided into 1/4 and 1/2

1 1/4c. flour

3 eggs

1 1/2 c. canola oil

1/2 c. sugar

Combine water, butter, salt, and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon in 1 ½-quart saucepan over medium heat. Bring pot to rolling boil. Reduce heat to low.

Add flour and stir vigorously until mix forms a ball. Remove from heat and let rest for 5-7 min. Add eggs, one at a time, and stir until combined. Set aside.

Heat oil in medium skillet or 1-quart saucepan over medium-high heat or until temperature reaches 350˚.

Spoon dough into piping bag fitted with large star tip. Pipe 1-inch strip of dough over saucepan, cut with knife, and drop into hot oil. Repeat until churro bites fill saucepan with room to fry. 

Fry churro bites until golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon or mesh spider strainer. Drain churro bites on paper towel.

Mix sugar and ½ teaspoon cinnamon in medium bowl. Toss in churro bites until coated. Place on serving plate and serve with favorite dipping sauce.

Gnocchi

Pasta and potatoes. What’s not to love? The tiny little dumplings called gnocchi are made simply from potatoes, flour, and egg with a pinch of salt. Simple ingredients make a pretty fantastic dish.

These little nuggets can be dense if too much flour is added and light and pillowy if done right. But either way, no one can deny they are the quintessential comfort food. Best on cold, dreary evenings, they can be paired with a meat sauce, a simple tomato sauce, or even just a little butter, sage, and grated parmesan cheese. 

The dish originated in Italy in the northern region because that area could grow potatoes better than grain. Gnocchi dates back to probably the late 17th to early 18th  century, well beyond the time when potatoes were introduced from the Americas. There are earlier versions of the pasta called gnocchi that substitute the potatoes with breadcrumbs or even squash. There are similar dumpling dishes throughout Europe, but it is most often associated with Italy.

Making the dough is not much different than making regular pasta. You simply add the mashed potatoes. Gnocchi is an easy go-to recipe when you’ve got leftovers. I just happened to make shepherd’s pie earlier this week, so I had mashed potatoes on hand. Otherwise, make the extra cooking step of boiling the potatoes and sieving them through a ricer. While the mashed potato version is perfectly fine, I think ricing the potatoes make a lighter, fluffier gnocco (the singular of gnocchi).

Here’s the recipe:

2 c. mashed potatoes 

2 c. all-purpose flour 

2 eggs, lightly beaten

Pinch of salt

In a mixing bowl, combine the potatoes, flour, and eggs. This can also be done in a food processor, if you prefer. Use the flour, all-purpose or a split of all-purpose and semolina, a little bit at a time as you are mixing. You may not need all of it. (Extra flour can be used for dusting.) Once the dough has been combined, cut into four parts using a pastry cutter. (The cutter will help you scrape up little bits of dough, too.) In the meantime, boil four quarts of salted water.

On a floured surface, roll out the dough until it is a long rope about an inch thick. Using the cutter, chop dough into one-inch segments. Using a fork, scrape the tines across each segment to make a ridge on each piece. (The ridges help trap the sauce.) Place on floured parchment paper.

When the water is boiling, toss in your gnocchi. When they are done, they will rise to the surface. Drain and serve immediately with your favorite sauce.

Buon appetito!

Chicken Liver Pate

My memories of beef liver came from my dad. He loved it—couldn’t get enough of it. To me, it was the worst smelling thing on the planet. Then, he put it with onions as if that somehow toned down the smell. The house would reek for days. For most people, the moment you mention the word “liver” they’ve already tuned you out.

But we’re not talking about beef liver here. We’re talking about chicken liver. And, once it’s whizzed up into a paste and spread on toasty baguette slices, you’ve probably forgotten the word liver completely.

The best part is it’s super easy to make. Aside from the liver, it’s shallots, thyme, butter, cream, Cognac, and salt and pepper. It’s not this fussy recipe that needs special equipment and braising for three hours. It usually takes about a half hour to make. Chicken livers are easily found in your local grocery store. You can get duck or goose liver, but you’ll probably have to seek out a good butcher for that. 

Pate is that light brown spread that goes with teeny tiny pickles like cornichons, maybe some pickled onions, and crusty bread. Often put with charcuterie boards littered with salami, nuts, and olives, it’s a great accompaniment but can also be the sole feature of your appetizer if you like. 

Here’s the recipe:

1/2 stick of butter, about 4 TB

1 large shallot, minced

3 sprigs of fresh thyme, stripped of leaves

1 lb. chicken livers

1 TB cognac

3 TB heavy cream.

Salt and pepper to taste

In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Sautee the shallots until translucent. Add the thyme leaves and the salt and pepper and cook for another minute or two. Add the chicken livers and sauté until they are cooked all the way through. Then, add the cognac at the end, simmering for a few minutes, and then turn off the heat. Pour the contents of the pan into a food processor. Mix the contents while slowly adding the cream until you’ve reached a nice smooth consistency. Place in a glass jar or whatever vessel you wish to serve it in and chill for one hour. Serve with toasted baguette slices.

Coconut Rice

Courtesy of Bon Appetit

I have to tell you a secret. I’ve recently discovered something that makes rice taste out-of-this world good: coconut milk. Honestly, I don’t know why I didn’t try it sooner. It’s tasty, yes. But it’s also versatile. Feeling a little Asian for dinner? No problem. Add a little cilantro and maybe some mango with black sesame seeds and you’ve got it going on, baby. Or, why not pair it with Jerk chicken for a little Caribbean feel. Frankly, I would put it with just about any lean protein—grilled salmon, roast chicken, flat iron steak, lamb kebabs, you name it.

You can easily do it on the stove top if you don’t have a cooker. (Although, I highly suggest you get one if you cook rice with any regularity. It just makes things so much easier at dinner time.) But here’s how I make it in my rice cooker.

2 c. white rice (Jasmine, Basmati, or long grain of your choice)

1 tsp. salt

1 14-oz. can of coconut milk

In a strainer or chinois, rinse your 2 cups of rice in cold water until the water runs clear. This will make your rice fluffier. In your rice cooker, combine the rice and salt with the coconut milk. You may need to add a little water if the level of liquid doesn’t quite cover the rice. Set the cooker to the white rice indicator and let it cook. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve. 

Lemon Posset

Pucker up, people! This dish is totally worth it.

My first experience with lemon posset was at Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster in Harlem. I’d never heard of the dessert, but one taste got me hooked. I’ve been dreaming about it ever since.

Lemon posset actually dates back to medieval England. It was initially a creamy, boozy drink that morphed into the tangy pudding it is today—sans booze, sadly. It’s silky smoothness and complex flavor makes it seem like it would be a fussy dessert with lots of ingredients and special equipment. Not so. It is literally three ingredients and takes about 15 minutes of your time with a saucepan and a whisk.

But be careful. The cream can boil over pretty easily. That ends up making a more watery consistency and the sugar in it retains a grainy texture. No good. It needs to come to a soft boil, pushed down to a simmer for five minutes, then take it off the heat. 

And, it definitely needs to chill for a while. Let it rest in ramekins for at least two hours before serving. A few berries, some mint, or even a tiny dollop of fresh whipped cream and you are good to go!

Here’s the recipe:

2 c. cream

2/3 c. granulated sugar

2 lemons, juice and zest

Zest and juice two lemons and set aside.

Place the cream in a saucepan on medium high heat to bring to boil. Stirring constantly, slowly add the sugar to completely dissolve it into the cream. Add the lemon zest and juice, stirring it in as you go. Once the cream comes to a boil, turn the heat down to simmer for five minutes. 

Let the mixture cool off for 5-10 minutes. Then, strain in a chinois to remove the zest. Pour into separate ramekins (makes approximately enough for 6). Cover in plastic wrap and chill for at least two hours.

Serve with your favorite berries or whipped cream and enjoy!

Panzanella

We can thank the Tuscans for making a summer salad of stale bread and overripe tomatoes. They called it panzanella as a combined term of “pane” for bread and “zanella” for the deep dish it is typically served in. Regardless of the name, it’s an ingenious way to use up leftovers.

It’s also a really cheap and easy dish when you don’t feel like making too much for dinner. In the sultry summer evenings, the last thing you want to do is turn on the oven. Fortunately, this is one of those dishes that doesn’t need a lick of heat.

Historians say the original dish was based on bread and onions. Tomatoes only came into the picture in the 20th century. Red onion serves the recipe best as it has not only color but kick. And the tomatoes offer their flavor and juice to give a little boost to the dressing. Sometimes mozzarella is used, but I prefer feta. I also like to add Kalamata olives. It may be a Tuscan dish, but I give it a little Greek flavor because the recipe often calls for cucumbers. That marriage of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, and feta is a winning Greek flavor profile. Adding capers and fresh basil and oregano round it out.

Here’s the recipe:

1 loaf day-old baguette or ciabatta

8 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved

1 hothouse cucumber, seeded and diced

1/2 red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 c. Kalamata olives

1/2 c. crumbled feta

1 TB. capers

2 TB. olive oil

2 TB. red wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp. basil

1 tsp. oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

For the bread, cut into large cubes. Coat with olive oil and salt and pepper. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or rub in more olive oil so that bread doesn’t stick to the pan. Bake at 375 for 15-20 min or until golden and crunchy. Set aside.

Mix together the oil, vinegar, Dijon, basil, and oregano. In a separate bowl, combine the tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, capers, onions, and feta. Add the dressing. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Add the croutons and serve.

Red Rooster

My family and I have had Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster on our bucket list since it opened in Harlem in December 2010. Obviously, it took us a while to get there. But get there we did and it was worth the trip. If you’re looking for down home cooking with a little Scandinavian twist, you’ve come to the right place.

But first, let’s talk about the vibe. Because the weather was nice, it has a nice section of the sidewalk reserved for outdoor dining—like every other restaurant in New York City with a little patch of concrete. Inside, music bumps and grinds to the jive of its clientele. People mill about the circular copper bar with funky drinks in their hands. I got not one but three hellos as we walked in. The dining area has round tables as it does communal tables with high chairs near the open kitchen. They serve lunch, brunch, and dinner with an afternoon bar menu. Prices (for New York City) are very reasonable with entrees hovering in the $25 range.

Now, for the food. There’s pork and there’s beef. (His grandmother’s recipe for meatballs was outrageously yummy in an olive-flecked tomato sauce.) There’s even a little bit of goat if you’re up for the challenge. (I find goat tasty but more bony than meaty.) But the clear star of the show is chicken, chicken, chicken. I’m not talking about any old dried bird. I’m talking honey coated fried chicken with just a hint of heat. Jerk chicken with at least five different discernible spices on the palate. Chicken and waffles—a down home must. And don’t forget the hot wings. You can even get a whole chicken fried and served with macaroni and cheese, biscuits, collard greens, and black beans. If you come with a group, I suggest their “It Takes Two” section of the menu. Gigantic portions could be easily shared with more than one person.

The collard greens were my first hint of the Swedish twist. Samuelsson, who was born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, always puts something in his dishes that remind him of home. The greens had that touch of something else—nutmeg or allspice. The kind of taste you expect to find in Swedish meatballs. He often includes pickled vegetables, particularly red onions, as a garnish. (Scandinavians love pickled everything.) The cornbread came with lingonberry butter. Who eats lingonberries? Swedes, obviously.

But the dish with the biggest surprise was for dessert. A lemon posset that was simultaneously sweet and tart. With a puckery tang and the silkiness of honey, it delivered a lemony punch complete with shortbread crumble. This dish made me want to run right home and make my own posset just so I could have some more. An English custard originally made as a drink of all things, posset has been making its way onto American menus in the past few years. Yet, it is nothing more than three simple ingredients: sugar, cream, and lemon juice. Simple. Elegant. Delicious.

I won’t say the next time I’m in Harlem I will definitely drop in. I will, however, make the trip to Harlem sometime very soon. This place is too good to pass up. I’ll be dreaming of that posset until then.

Roast Chicken

Image courtesy of Barefoot Contessa

Simultaneously the simplest dish and the most elegant, roast chicken is one of those go-to meals any time of year. It can be an easy weeknight dish, satisfy a craving for a home-cooked meal, or served as the centerpiece for a lovely dinner party. It’s also one of those quick and easy recipes you should have in your back pocket.

And because it’s so versatile, you can serve it with just about any side dish. Roasted potatoes. Cous cous. Basmati rice. Broccoli rabe in garlic and oil. A simple salad. Frankly, that’s how I prefer my roast chicken. Make the chicken the highlight of the meal. I often serve it with just a mesclun mix dressed lightly with a champagne vinaigrette, warmed baguette, and a nice Sancerre. Now, that’s good eatin.’

There isn’t a top chef or major food star out there who doesn’t tout the simple beauty of a roast chicken. Ina Garten. Jacques Pepin. Martha Stewart and so many others. Roast chicken is the winningest meal. 

Julia Child said in her Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1, “You can always judge the quality of a cook or a restaurant by roast chicken. While it does not require years of training to produce a juicy, brown, buttery, crisp-skinned, heavenly bird, it does entail such a greed for perfection that one is under compulsion to hover over the bird, listen to it, above all see that it is continually basted, and that it is done just to the proper turn.” The Joy of Cooking agrees with Child that it doesn’t take a restaurant chef to cook a good chicken. It just takes a good quality bird, a solid roasting pan, and a hot oven.

Here’s my favorite recipe:

1 3-4 lb. chicken

1 lemon, halved

1 bunch of thyme

Olive oil

Kosher salt

Black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Blot chicken dry inside and out. Coat the chest cavity with salt. Cover the outside with good quality olive oil, salt, and pepper. Inside the cavity, place the lemon halved and the bunch of thyme. In a roasting pan covered in foil, place the prepared chicken and pop it in for one hour or until juices run clear.

Et voila! 

Chicken Tikka Masala

It’s a popular dish for good reason. Succulent chunks of poultry marinated in yogurt and then sautéed in a tomato-based cream sauce then spooned over steaming Basmati rice. While most certainly tasty, its origins are debatable. Tikka Masala has an Indian base in terms of its flavor and spices, but it likely has its roots in Britain. Dating back to probably the 1960s, it was first cooked by a Bangladeshi chef in the U.K. (also disputed as to whether it was outside London or Glasgow) and became a sensation immediately.

There are variations to the recipe, but it is typically done with garlic, ginger, cilantro, crushed tomatoes and tomato paste, garam masala, and cream. Cayenne pepper and jalapenos are often substituted for the heat factor and the yogurt is widely used for the original marinade. But those main flavors are the foundation of the dish. It’s approachable and easy to make, yet it has an exotic flavor. A little naan to wipe up the excess is a must.

Here’s the recipe I use:

For the marinade:

2 lbs. chicken thighs cut into chunks

1 lemon, zested and juiced

1 c. Greek yogurt

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 tsp. ginger, minced

1/2 tsp. cumin

1/4 tsp. cayenne

1/4 tsp. coriander

1/4 tsp. cardamom

1/4 tsp. turmeric

1/4 tsp. salt

1/4 tsp. pepper

For the Tikka:

1 28 oz. can of crushed tomatoes

1 tsp. tomato paste

1 small onion, minced

1 clove garlic, minced

2 jalapenos, seeded and minced

1 tsp. cumin

1 tsp. garam masala

1 TB canola vegetable oil

Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a separate bowl. Cut chicken thighs into chunks and incorporate them into the marinade. Place all of it in a Ziploc bag and let sit for at least one hour. Can be left in marinade overnight.

Heat oil in heavy pot over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, spices, and tomato paste and cook until onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add crushed tomatoes and simmer down until sauce thickens, 8-10 minutes. Lower heat, add cream and cilantro, and simmer for 30 minutes.

In the meantime, line a baking sheet with parchment paper and place marinated chicken on it. Bake at 350 for 15-20 minutes. Then incorporate into the simmering sauce and cook for another 10-15 minutes until the chicken chunks are cooked through. 

Serve over steamed Basmati rice with a cilantro garnish.

Whoopie Pies

Courtesy of Epicurious.com

I love the idea of whoopie pies. They’re a cake, a cookie, a sandwich, and kind of a cupcake all in one. Whichever dessert you prefer, this one covers it. Sort of a crowd pleaser, if you will. While the traditional flavor is chocolate with vanilla buttercream, there are plenty of other variations that are just as tasty. Pumpkin. Gingerbread. Golden Vanilla. Red Velvet. Peanut butter. Chocolate Chip Cookie. The fillings are typically buttercream, cream cheese, marshmallow fluff, but they can be a whole host of other flavorings.

The list goes on and for good reason. It’s a simple concept of two mini cakes sandwiching a filling. The cake batter can be just about anything as can the creamy inside. Consider a strawberry shortcake version by adding strawberries to the vanilla buttercream and a little red food coloring to the golden vanilla batter. That’s just pink heaven right there. Or, make the chocolate cakes with a mint cream filling adding crushed peppermint sticks. Perfect for the holidays. These are just two examples of how creative you can get with the recipe.

Doing a little digging, it appears the whoopie pie is a Northeastern phenomenon. Often held as a New England tradition as well as a Pennsylvanian Amish favorite, it also happens to be the state treat of Maine. No joke. I wasn’t even aware that certain states had declared favorite foods, but whatever works. There is debate as to the birth place, but either way it is a Northern dessert harking back to probably the early 1920s.

I searched through a bunch of different recipes for whoopie pies, so this recipe is a representation of the most common ingredients and methods. One thing I will add about the buttercream: make sure you use more confectioner’s sugar than milk. My cream was initially too thin. It sort of oozed off the sides of the chocolate cakes. That’s not what you want. Ideally, the buttercream should be stiff enough to hold up the top cake and remain intact. Just add more confectioner’s sugar if you feel the filling just isn’t the right consistency.

The other misstep I made with this recipe was in the cooking process. I baked the cakes at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes. That worked to actually cook the batter all the way through. But, the rest of the cake was continuing to rise while the upper layer had already baked causing it to crack on the top. You want a smooth cake mound. So, the next time I might try to go low and slow. I’ve changed the recipe here to reflect that. Take the temperature down to 350 degrees and bake for 15-18 minutes on the middle rack in your oven. Using a cake tester, make sure it is baked through. If not, just pop it back in for another minute or two.

Here’s the recipe:

For the pies:

1 3/4 c. all-purpose flour

1 c. granulated sugar

3/4 c. unsweetened cocoa powder

1/2 tsp. baking powder

1 1/2 tsp baking soda

1/2 tsp kosher salt

1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

1 lg. egg

1 c. buttermilk, room temperature

1 tsp. vanilla extract

For the buttercream:

1/2 c. (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

4 c. confectioner’s sugar

1/4 c. milk

1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Sift flour, salt, cocoa powder, baking soda, and baking powder. Set aside. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add egg, buttermilk, and vanilla. Combine well. Gradually, add the dry ingredients until fully incorporated.

Using two large spoons (like a serving spoon or soup spoon), make a rounded mound of batter and place on the parchment, about 12 per pan. (Note: an ice cream scoop is often suggested to use here. But unless you have one with a scraper on the inside, it doesn’t quite work. You need something to push the batter onto the parchment.) Bake for 15-18 minutes or until done. Cool on a rack. 

For the buttercream, cream butter until smooth. Gradually, add the confectioner’s sugar. Mix until light and fluffy. Add milk and vanilla and thoroughly combine. Add more sugar if consistency is too thin.

You can spread the buttercream on the cake or use a disposable pastry bag and pipe the contents onto each cake. Top with the other half.

Serve and enjoy!

Flourless Chocolate Cake

This is quite possibly my favorite dessert. That’s not to say that there aren’t other desserts out there equally as yummy. But this one is sumptuous, yet simple with only a few ingredients to its name. Fine quality chocolate and egg whites are the stars of this recipe. While it’s gluten-free because of its lack of wheat-based flour, that aspect is almost irrelevant because its texture is so dense and chocolatey. 

There are a number of theories as to the cake’s origin. Most of them revolve around a mistake in leaving out the flour. Some say it originated in Italy, others France. Still others refer to its “Chocolate Decadence” days from a California restaurant in the 1980s. A New York Times article in 2011 focused more on the flavor than the history and broke it down this way: “It is a wonderful showcase for good chocolate…[and it compares] to cheesecake, where the chocolate takes place of the cheese.” 

One of the best recipes I have found for this cake appeared in Bon Appetit in 1999. I have made it a number of times since then. Now, this recipe not only calls for a ganache glaze—which for supreme chocolate lovers is just about enough chocolate in each mouthful—as well as gold leafing (can anyone say overkill?). While the ganache makes this cake truly decadent, I find it’s an easy addition to skip. Very often, this cake is topped with just a dusting of powdered sugar, which frankly I prefer. The simpler, the better. Feel free to add a little fruit—a few raspberries, a decorative strawberry, or even roasted, caramelized blood orange slices and call it a day. 

Here’s the recipe for both cake and ganache:

For cake:

12 oz. bittersweet chocolate chips

1 1/2 sticks of butter (3/4 c.) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

6 large eggs, separated

12 TB sugar

2 tsp. vanilla

For glaze:

1/2 c. whipping cream

1/2 c. dark corn syrup

9 oz. bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate chips

Chocolate shavings or gold leaf (seriously optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter 9-inch springform pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment paper and butter paper. Wrap outside of pan with foil.

Stir butter and chocolate chips in saucepan over low heat until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and cool.

Using electric mixer, beat egg yolks and 6 TB of sugar in a large bowl until mixture is very thick and a pale yellow, about 3 minutes. Fold lukewarm chocolate into yolks and then fold in vanilla. Clean beaters and whip egg whites in a separate bowl forming soft peaks. Gradually add the remaining 6 TB of sugar to the whites, further beating until stiff peaks form. Fold whites into chocolate and yolk mixture, then pouring batter into the prepared pan.

Bake cake until top is puffed and cracked and a cake tester comes out clean, approximately 50 min. Cool cake on rack. Gently press down crusty top once it falls to make an evenly thick cake. Loosen from pan and remove sides. Invert and peel off parchment.

In a saucepan, bring cream and corn syrup to a simmer. Add chocolate and whisk until smooth. Place cake on a rack over a baking sheet. Spread the glaze smoothly over the top and side and then freeze for 3 min to set. Pour remaining glaze over cake smoothing it out and chill for 1 hour in refrigerator until firm, 1 hour. Garnish optional. Serve at room temperature.

Chicken Marbella

Courtesy of The New York Times

Chicken with dried fruits in wine. That’s basically the recipe that got its fame from The Silver Palate Cookbook first published in 1982. But then cut to 2005 when renowned chef Ferran Adrià, who put the now defunct elBulli on the gastronomical map, gave his version of this chicken dish with dried apricots and sour cherries. In 2018, Israeli-British chef Yotam Ottolenghi produced his latest cookbook, Simple, with his version of the Silver Palate recipe. 

Ottolenghi uses dates instead of the prunes the Palate calls for. Adrià uses port with a cinnamon stick rather than the dry white wine of the Palate recipe. Ottolenghi and Palate call for green olives and capers. Adrià replaces those with citrus zest. Regardless of ancillary ingredients, this is a basic recipe of chicken with dried fruit with a savory foil to balance the sweetness. It is meant to be marinated ahead of time and then cooked in its own juices to further infuse those flavors into the meat. You could switch out the chicken for lamb or pork in this recipe. But I think the chicken is the best canvas for this kind of flavor profile.

While many attribute the recipe to the cuisine of southern Spain and the town of Marbella, it actually has its origins in the Silver Palate. The cookbook’s main recipe creator is co-author Sheila Lukins. She has claimed that the Mediterranean was an inspiration for the dish, but a dish she can call her own. And it was so good, two top chefs put their creative energy into it.

Here’s the recipe I used:

8 chicken thighs

Juice of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lime

Juice of 1 orange

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 c. dried oregano (or 1/2 c. of fresh oregano)

3 TB pomegranate vinegar

1/2 c. olive oil

3 TB capers

3 TB pine nuts

1/4 c. Medjool dates, quartered

1/4 c. dried cherries

2 bay leaves

1/2 c. dry white wine

2TB parsley, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

In a separate bowl, combine the chicken with 1/4 c. of olive oil along with the lemon and lime juices, bay leaves, and 1/8 c. of the dried oregano. Also add a 1/2 tsp. of salt. Let sit for as little as 2 hours and as much as 24—the longer you marinate the better. 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Whisk together the vinegar, white wine, orange juice, garlic, and the remainder of the olive oil and dried oregano. In a baking dish, place the marinated chicken and dried fruit. Pour the liquids over the chicken. Bake for 30-35 minutes.

Serve immediately on a platter garnished with parsley.

Seafood Chowder

When the weather starts to turn gray and dismal, there’s nothing more satisfying than a hearty bowl of soup. It’s like a little ray of sunshine in your bowl. As a lifetime New Englander, seafood chowder is something I can’t get enough of. Don’t be surprised if you catch me eating even in the summer.

The best part of seafood chowder is it’s really just New England clam chowder. But, you can add whatever fish you’d like. Lobster. Shrimp. Langoustine. Crab. Scallops. Clams. Muscles. Cod. Halibut. Frankly, anything that swims. 

Chowders typically start with a roux of butter and flour. But, there are plenty of chowder-type soups and stews that are more broth-based and just as hearty. Think bouillabaisse—it’s a seafood blend with fennel in a tomato broth. Try another tomato dish with Manhattan clam chowder. And, the Rhode Island version also has no roux, just clam juice as its base.

For this recipe, I used not only a mirepoix of onions, carrots, and celery but a flavor point that started with bacon. Cooking the chopped bacon off and using the rendered fat, I could soften the diced veg nicely. Adding thyme and parsley, I snuck in a little knob of butter. Sifting the flour over the top, I stirred it to thicken. Adding chicken stock and a little wine, the base was now ready for an infusion of milk and cream. Corn kernels made the dish come alive as I’m sure peas would have been a good addition (if my kids didn’t hate peas). You could even leave this dish alone with just the corn and call it chowder. The sky’s the limit!

Here’s the recipe:

1/2 c. bacon, chopped

1 large onion, diced

2 large carrots, diced

3-4 ribs of celery diced

1 c. corn kernels

1 c. lobster

2 c. langoustine

1/2 c. flour

1/2 c. white wine

2 c. chicken stock

2 c. milk

1 c. cream

3 TB fresh thyme

3 TB fresh parsley, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, heat the bacon over medium heat until browned and the fat has been rendered. Remove the bacon using the fat for the onions. Once the onions have become translucent, add the carrots and the celery. Cook until soft. Add the flour to thicken. Stir in wine and chicken stock until all the flour has been incorporated. Add the milk and the cream. Once the chowder has started to come back up to temperature, add the remaining ingredients and cook for another 15 minutes.

Serve with a side salad and crusty baguette for a hearty lunch!