Panzanella

We can thank the Tuscans for making a summer salad of stale bread and overripe tomatoes. They called it panzanella as a combined term of “pane” for bread and “zanella” for the deep dish it is typically served in. Regardless of the name, it’s an ingenious way to use up leftovers.

It’s also a really cheap and easy dish when you don’t feel like making too much for dinner. In the sultry summer evenings, the last thing you want to do is turn on the oven. Fortunately, this is one of those dishes that doesn’t need a lick of heat.

Historians say the original dish was based on bread and onions. Tomatoes only came into the picture in the 20th century. Red onion serves the recipe best as it has not only color but kick. And the tomatoes offer their flavor and juice to give a little boost to the dressing. Sometimes mozzarella is used, but I prefer feta. I also like to add Kalamata olives. It may be a Tuscan dish, but I give it a little Greek flavor because the recipe often calls for cucumbers. That marriage of tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, and feta is a winning Greek flavor profile. Adding capers and fresh basil and oregano round it out.

Here’s the recipe:

1 loaf day-old baguette or ciabatta

8 oz. cherry tomatoes, halved

1 hothouse cucumber, seeded and diced

1/2 red onion, thinly sliced

1/2 c. Kalamata olives

1/2 c. crumbled feta

1 TB. capers

2 TB. olive oil

2 TB. red wine vinegar

1 tsp Dijon mustard

1 tsp. basil

1 tsp. oregano

Salt and pepper to taste

For the bread, cut into large cubes. Coat with olive oil and salt and pepper. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or rub in more olive oil so that bread doesn’t stick to the pan. Bake at 375 for 15-20 min or until golden and crunchy. Set aside.

Mix together the oil, vinegar, Dijon, basil, and oregano. In a separate bowl, combine the tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, capers, onions, and feta. Add the dressing. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. Add the croutons and serve.

Red Rooster

My family and I have had Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster on our bucket list since it opened in Harlem in December 2010. Obviously, it took us a while to get there. But get there we did and it was worth the trip. If you’re looking for down home cooking with a little Scandinavian twist, you’ve come to the right place.

But first, let’s talk about the vibe. Because the weather was nice, it has a nice section of the sidewalk reserved for outdoor dining—like every other restaurant in New York City with a little patch of concrete. Inside, music bumps and grinds to the jive of its clientele. People mill about the circular copper bar with funky drinks in their hands. I got not one but three hellos as we walked in. The dining area has round tables as it does communal tables with high chairs near the open kitchen. They serve lunch, brunch, and dinner with an afternoon bar menu. Prices (for New York City) are very reasonable with entrees hovering in the $25 range.

Now, for the food. There’s pork and there’s beef. (His grandmother’s recipe for meatballs was outrageously yummy in an olive-flecked tomato sauce.) There’s even a little bit of goat if you’re up for the challenge. (I find goat tasty but more bony than meaty.) But the clear star of the show is chicken, chicken, chicken. I’m not talking about any old dried bird. I’m talking honey coated fried chicken with just a hint of heat. Jerk chicken with at least five different discernible spices on the palate. Chicken and waffles—a down home must. And don’t forget the hot wings. You can even get a whole chicken fried and served with macaroni and cheese, biscuits, collard greens, and black beans. If you come with a group, I suggest their “It Takes Two” section of the menu. Gigantic portions could be easily shared with more than one person.

The collard greens were my first hint of the Swedish twist. Samuelsson, who was born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, always puts something in his dishes that remind him of home. The greens had that touch of something else—nutmeg or allspice. The kind of taste you expect to find in Swedish meatballs. He often includes pickled vegetables, particularly red onions, as a garnish. (Scandinavians love pickled everything.) The cornbread came with lingonberry butter. Who eats lingonberries? Swedes, obviously.

But the dish with the biggest surprise was for dessert. A lemon posset that was simultaneously sweet and tart. With a puckery tang and the silkiness of honey, it delivered a lemony punch complete with shortbread crumble. This dish made me want to run right home and make my own posset just so I could have some more. An English custard originally made as a drink of all things, posset has been making its way onto American menus in the past few years. Yet, it is nothing more than three simple ingredients: sugar, cream, and lemon juice. Simple. Elegant. Delicious.

I won’t say the next time I’m in Harlem I will definitely drop in. I will, however, make the trip to Harlem sometime very soon. This place is too good to pass up. I’ll be dreaming of that posset until then.

Roast Chicken

Image courtesy of Barefoot Contessa

Simultaneously the simplest dish and the most elegant, roast chicken is one of those go-to meals any time of year. It can be an easy weeknight dish, satisfy a craving for a home-cooked meal, or served as the centerpiece for a lovely dinner party. It’s also one of those quick and easy recipes you should have in your back pocket.

And because it’s so versatile, you can serve it with just about any side dish. Roasted potatoes. Cous cous. Basmati rice. Broccoli rabe in garlic and oil. A simple salad. Frankly, that’s how I prefer my roast chicken. Make the chicken the highlight of the meal. I often serve it with just a mesclun mix dressed lightly with a champagne vinaigrette, warmed baguette, and a nice Sancerre. Now, that’s good eatin.’

There isn’t a top chef or major food star out there who doesn’t tout the simple beauty of a roast chicken. Ina Garten. Jacques Pepin. Martha Stewart and so many others. Roast chicken is the winningest meal. 

Julia Child said in her Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Vol. 1, “You can always judge the quality of a cook or a restaurant by roast chicken. While it does not require years of training to produce a juicy, brown, buttery, crisp-skinned, heavenly bird, it does entail such a greed for perfection that one is under compulsion to hover over the bird, listen to it, above all see that it is continually basted, and that it is done just to the proper turn.” The Joy of Cooking agrees with Child that it doesn’t take a restaurant chef to cook a good chicken. It just takes a good quality bird, a solid roasting pan, and a hot oven.

Here’s my favorite recipe:

1 3-4 lb. chicken

1 lemon, halved

1 bunch of thyme

Olive oil

Kosher salt

Black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Blot chicken dry inside and out. Coat the chest cavity with salt. Cover the outside with good quality olive oil, salt, and pepper. Inside the cavity, place the lemon halved and the bunch of thyme. In a roasting pan covered in foil, place the prepared chicken and pop it in for one hour or until juices run clear.

Et voila!