Chicken Marbella

Courtesy of The New York Times

Chicken with dried fruits in wine. That’s basically the recipe that got its fame from The Silver Palate Cookbook first published in 1982. But then cut to 2005 when renowned chef Ferran Adrià, who put the now defunct elBulli on the gastronomical map, gave his version of this chicken dish with dried apricots and sour cherries. In 2018, Israeli-British chef Yotam Ottolenghi produced his latest cookbook, Simple, with his version of the Silver Palate recipe. 

Ottolenghi uses dates instead of the prunes the Palate calls for. Adrià uses port with a cinnamon stick rather than the dry white wine of the Palate recipe. Ottolenghi and Palate call for green olives and capers. Adrià replaces those with citrus zest. Regardless of ancillary ingredients, this is a basic recipe of chicken with dried fruit with a savory foil to balance the sweetness. It is meant to be marinated ahead of time and then cooked in its own juices to further infuse those flavors into the meat. You could switch out the chicken for lamb or pork in this recipe. But I think the chicken is the best canvas for this kind of flavor profile.

While many attribute the recipe to the cuisine of southern Spain and the town of Marbella, it actually has its origins in the Silver Palate. The cookbook’s main recipe creator is co-author Sheila Lukins. She has claimed that the Mediterranean was an inspiration for the dish, but a dish she can call her own. And it was so good, two top chefs put their creative energy into it.

Here’s the recipe I used:

8 chicken thighs

Juice of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lime

Juice of 1 orange

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 c. dried oregano (or 1/2 c. of fresh oregano)

3 TB pomegranate vinegar

1/2 c. olive oil

3 TB capers

3 TB pine nuts

1/4 c. Medjool dates, quartered

1/4 c. dried cherries

2 bay leaves

1/2 c. dry white wine

2TB parsley, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

In a separate bowl, combine the chicken with 1/4 c. of olive oil along with the lemon and lime juices, bay leaves, and 1/8 c. of the dried oregano. Also add a 1/2 tsp. of salt. Let sit for as little as 2 hours and as much as 24—the longer you marinate the better. 

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Whisk together the vinegar, white wine, orange juice, garlic, and the remainder of the olive oil and dried oregano. In a baking dish, place the marinated chicken and dried fruit. Pour the liquids over the chicken. Bake for 30-35 minutes.

Serve immediately on a platter garnished with parsley.

Seafood Chowder

When the weather starts to turn gray and dismal, there’s nothing more satisfying than a hearty bowl of soup. It’s like a little ray of sunshine in your bowl. As a lifetime New Englander, seafood chowder is something I can’t get enough of. Don’t be surprised if you catch me eating even in the summer.

The best part of seafood chowder is it’s really just New England clam chowder. But, you can add whatever fish you’d like. Lobster. Shrimp. Langoustine. Crab. Scallops. Clams. Muscles. Cod. Halibut. Frankly, anything that swims. 

Chowders typically start with a roux of butter and flour. But, there are plenty of chowder-type soups and stews that are more broth-based and just as hearty. Think bouillabaisse—it’s a seafood blend with fennel in a tomato broth. Try another tomato dish with Manhattan clam chowder. And, the Rhode Island version also has no roux, just clam juice as its base.

For this recipe, I used not only a mirepoix of onions, carrots, and celery but a flavor point that started with bacon. Cooking the chopped bacon off and using the rendered fat, I could soften the diced veg nicely. Adding thyme and parsley, I snuck in a little knob of butter. Sifting the flour over the top, I stirred it to thicken. Adding chicken stock and a little wine, the base was now ready for an infusion of milk and cream. Corn kernels made the dish come alive as I’m sure peas would have been a good addition (if my kids didn’t hate peas). You could even leave this dish alone with just the corn and call it chowder. The sky’s the limit!

Here’s the recipe:

1/2 c. bacon, chopped

1 large onion, diced

2 large carrots, diced

3-4 ribs of celery diced

1 c. corn kernels

1 c. lobster

2 c. langoustine

1/2 c. flour

1/2 c. white wine

2 c. chicken stock

2 c. milk

1 c. cream

3 TB fresh thyme

3 TB fresh parsley, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large stock pot or Dutch oven, heat the bacon over medium heat until browned and the fat has been rendered. Remove the bacon using the fat for the onions. Once the onions have become translucent, add the carrots and the celery. Cook until soft. Add the flour to thicken. Stir in wine and chicken stock until all the flour has been incorporated. Add the milk and the cream. Once the chowder has started to come back up to temperature, add the remaining ingredients and cook for another 15 minutes.

Serve with a side salad and crusty baguette for a hearty lunch!

Mushroom Galette

Sure, a picture of the WHOLE thing would have been nice...

When you hear that little French word, “galette,” you might think more of dessert than you would a main meal. But, this rustic tart form is pretty versatile. It can be as sweet or as savory as you’d like to make it.

While generally the dough is rolled out like a flat pancake, it folds over the top of whatever filling you desire. My favorite dessert has always been an apple galette. Far quicker and easier than an actual pie, it still has that apple pie taste and surely a good pairing for a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

While a galette is lovely served at the end of a meal, it can be the meal as well. In this dish, I used a combination of caramelized onions and shitake mushrooms. Once the mixture is cooled from the sauté pan, spoon onto the rolled out dough and fold the sides over the top adding a little egg wash for a nice golden brown.

 Here’s the recipe:

For the dough:

2 1/4 c. flour

1 c. butter, diced

1 egg, plus 1 egg and water for egg wash

1 TB white wine vinegar

Ice water

For the filling:

1 c. shitake mushrooms

1 c. thinly sliced onions

1 TB butter

1 TB olive oil

1/4 c. fresh thyme

1/4 c. parsley, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Place the dough ingredients in a food processor and pulse until fully combined. Place on a floured surface and knead for about 5 minutes. Wrap ball in cling wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour.

In the meantime, heat skillet on medium high and then add butter and oil. Once melted, add the onions, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper. When the onions have become soft and translucent, add the mushrooms, cooking down until the liquid has reduced. Set aside and cool.

Roll out dough onto a floured surface. Make sure the dough is evenly distributed and wide enough to fold over (approximately 10-12” diameter). Place the filling in the middle 2/3 of the dough. Fold the tops over leaving the filling in the middle uncovered. Brush egg wash on the dough before popping it into the oven.

Bake for 25-30 minutes. Serve immediately.